Peopoly Magneto X Community FAQ

Last Updated: 2025-01-13 06:18

Notes

Please send any questions, comments, suggestion, new FAQs to @kaihanga on Discord or via kaihanga@nulleta.com.

An Official FAQ is also available.

Read your manual, confirm what you’re doing, everything’s at your own risk.

General

Printer

Enclosure

Support & Community

Filament Profiles

Parts

Other Section Ideas

Printing (common VFA, Ringing suggestions, etc.)

Answers… ish

What’s the size, measurements, etc.?

Author(s): @kaihanga

Bed: 400mm x 300mm x 300mm

Printer: 60.5cm x 54cm x 70cm (length, width, height)

Enclosure: Total of 79cm with 25cm for front door(s) access

Jetstream Side Cooling: Increases printer length to 68cm (adds 7.5cm)

Setup Guides are wrong or don’t make sense?

Author(s): @kaihanga

The Setup Guides, such as for the Printer, JetStream, and Enclosure don’t match what you recevied or they’re wrong or they don’t make sense.

The setup guides represent the state of the printer back when it was first introduced and - for the most part - haven’t been updated since, including to accomodate all the improvements.

Here are various notes for each, please message the author with any others inconsistencies.

Printer

JetStream

How to install a Beacon

Author(s): @kaihanga

WARNING - In progress, proceed with caution

What’s a Beacon?

Notes:

  1. Print mount, I used this mod in ASA-CF
    1. It’s going to be near bedheat so heat deflection, etc. is good
    2. Included PETG-CF isn’t enough, reports of sagging
    3. Must be stable
  2. Using linked mount
    1. unscrew 4 screws near nozzle
    2. Slightly move nozzle cable out of way and return when done, 2 are clockwise while two are counter-clockwise
    3. Attache Beacon with pointed side facing the nozzle
    4. Hand-tighten
  3. Attach cable connection to beacon, tab facing nozzle
  4. Unscrew bottom right side base cover, 10 screws
  5. Attach USB cable to any USB port
    1. Be sure there’s plenty of slack and the cable’s not interferring with the toolhead
  6. Power on printer
  7. Follow Beacon Quickstart
    1. Including Moonraker configuration
    2. ls /dev/serial/by-id
    3. See sample printer.cfg
    4. TODO measure Beacon offset direction
    5. TODO Not doing safe section
    6. Calibrate, via commands in Klipper UI
      1. Home g28 x y
      2. Center G0 X150 Y200
      3. With paper under nozzle, manually move Z until drags
        1. Beacon RED LED will light
      4. BEACON_CALIBRATE
        1. Move up & down -.001
        2. ACCEPT
      5. BEACON_AUTO_CALIBRATE
        1. Be sure not to have drag on USB line, will disrupt measure
    7. TODO Finish and do a print
  8. Tidy up cabling
    1. Cable can be routed in the cable chain but needs to have distance from the motor wiring due to noise Source
  9. Reattach bottom right panel

Config examples

How to SSH into the printer?

SSH access is needed for a number of low-level tasks such as installing addons.

Open a terminal and ssh pi@<your Magneto X IP address>

The default username is “pi” and the password is “armbian”.

References

Guides to modify the timezone

What and how to lubricate?

Author(s): @kaihanga

Peopoly’s Linear Guide Maintenance.

Lubricate every 4 - 6 weeks is necessary with some evidence it helps with VFAs, Ringing, etc.

Use an NLGI 2 grease such as Mobil Polyrex EP2

Recommended syringes, for getting into tighter places, such as the X carraige.

References

General maintenance tips: Lubrication Basics - Keep your 3D printer running smooth and quiet.

  1. Ensure printer is powered off
  2. Inspect the rails, if rust found, remove with WD-40
  3. Using a gloved hand, smooth it onto both side of all the rails:
    1. 2 on top for the Y axis
    2. 1 under the gantry for the X axis
    3. All 4 vertical Z axis
  4. Manually move the toolhead back and forth in both X & Y axes to ensure even distribution of the grease along the entire rail.
  5. Clean up any excees on the toolhead
References

“If the grease isn’t oozing out and making a mess then you’re not using enough.”

How to install the Nozzle Wiper

Author(s): @kaihanga

The nozzle wiper installation docs suggest placing the felt before moving the toolhead to align. Unfortunately, the toolhead cannot move as far X as suggested due to the part cooling fan. This may be due to the docs being written before the present fan design.

  1. Follow the installation
    1. EXCEPT do the toolhead move first then place the felt
    2. Note the two x & y coordinate sets
  2. In the macros.cfg file
    1. Copy & Paste the GCODE into the macros.cfg file
    2. Replace the two x, y coordinates as the installation directs
    3. Add the MAG_WIPE_NOZZLE macro near the bottom of the PRINT_START macro, before LINE_PURGE

How to lower the print bed after a print?

Author(s): @kaihanga

Replace the PRINT_END macro in macros.cfg with the following…

[gcode_macro PRINT_END]
variable_max_z: 300  # Set this to your printer's max Z height
gcode:
  G91                              # Switch to relative positioning
  G1 Z5 F600                       # Raise the nozzle by 5mm (lower bed by 5mm)
  G1 E-5 F300                      # Retract filament
  G90                              # Switch back to absolute positioning
  G1 X150 Y10 F12000               # Move nozzle to park position
  M104 S0                          # Turn off hotend
  M140 S0                          # Turn off bed heater
  M106 S0                          # Turn off part cooling fan
  {% set target_z = ((printer.toolhead.position.z + max_z) / 2)|round(1) %}
  G1 Z{target_z} F600              # Move bed to halfway point between current Z and max Z
  UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=delay_disable_motor DURATION=30  # Delay motor disable
References

“This is tested to and works on my V0. I changed the values here to match the Magneto:”

Received a timeout in Orcaslicer when sending a print?

You received the following timeout error when sending a print, which may have still started. Orcaslicer timeout error

The Magneto X is closing the Orcaslicer connection before fully processing and accepting the print request.

To fix, a network component of the Magneto X needs to be adjusted to allow the printer to take longer to process the print request. The catch is that this isn’t a one-size-fix-all solutoon as the timeout period may need to be further adjusted for larger and larger print sizes. It also can’t be made excessively big, or even infinite, as that creates other issues. The suggestion is to start with the recommendation below, increasing to as much as 1600s as needed.

This improvement requires SSH access.

  1. SSH into the printer
  2. Edit nginx’s settings, add the following 4 lines to the bottom of the http section of /etc/nginx/nginx.conf, such as sudo nano /etc/nginx/nginx.conf
    1. proxy_send_timeout 500s;
    2. proxy_read_timeout 500s;
    3. fastcgi_send_timeout 500s;
    4. fastcgi_read_timeout 500s;
  3. Restart nginx, sudo systemctl restart nginx
  4. Confirm nginx is running, sudo systemctl status nginx
    1. Should see active (running) in the middle
References

“If the plate upload size is too big I get that error. It looks like you can change some config settings…”

“It’s not an issue with orcaslicer, but with nginx on the printer.”

How to fix Pause and Resume

Author(s): @kaihanga

The Pause & Resume funtionality’s broken due to there being multiple defitions of the [gcode_macro PAUSE] and [gcode_macro RESUME] macros across the macros.cfg and mainsail.cfg files. The ones in mainsale.cfg need to be commented out as those in macros.cfg are correct.

This file cannot be edited by the Klipper web interface as it’s read-only.

  1. SSH into the printer
  2. nano mainsail-config/mainsail.cfg
  3. Comment out, that is put a # in front of every line, of the [gcode_macro PAUSE] and [gcode_macro RESUME] macros. That is every line from those macros through to the next [gcode_macro ...] line.
  4. Exit and save the file
References

“Wow. Downloaded mailsail, commented out the pause and resume and then uploaded it …”

How to backup the printer configuration and macros?

Author(s): @kaihanga

Many fixes and improvements referenced here as well as those you find on the Peopoly Discord involve editing the printer’s settings and macros. Backing them up ensure you don’t lose that work.

Here are a couple of videos on how to do so. Watching both is recommended as they provide different perspectives.

Modbot - This Klipper Add-on Could Save You! (Klipper-Backup)

Minimal 3DP - Klipper Backups! A New Guide to Using Klipper Macros to Backup Your Configuration Files

References

I’d recommend watching both as they give overlapping but slightly different insights.

Troubleshooting the 24v side of the electronics

Author(s): @kaihanga

Symptoms of a failure include part of the printer system powering off. Troubleshooting includes isolating where the failure’s ocurring. For one user it was a failure of the Octopus control board in the printer’s base. As the printer was still under warranty, Peoply sent a new card. Peoply sent the following MagnetoX 24V power supply troubleshooting steps to figure out the cause.

References

I started a print and everything on the 24v side powered off.

Enclosure installation tips

Author(s): @kaihanga

How to install Display at top?

Author(s): @kaihanga

The cables two cables needed for the display don’t easily reach the top.

  1. Extend cables at bottom
  2. Buy Micro HDMI and USB Type-A Extenders
    1. Yes, it’s Mini HDMI and USB Type C at the console but it’s micro HDMI and USB Type-A connecting to the Orange PI computer
  3. Remove bottom right panel
  4. Clip zip ties binding cables
  5. Unscrew Z motor; it can be torqued in tough
  6. What’s first and second here may differ for you
    1. Use needle-nose pliers to remove glue
    2. Pull out cables
    3. Rinse, repeat as necessary
    4. Keep enough cable slack to connect to extenders
  7. Carefully pull each cable from top feeding additional cable from the bottom - Don’t stress the cables!
  8. Check for good slack and the three points: top out for the screen, middle in to take the cables down the rail, and space around the z motor
  9. Hook up extensions and mount screen, confirming you have the needed cable length
  10. Reattach Z motor
  11. Turn on and test screen works
  12. Clean up
    1. Optional - Zip tie cables
    2. Reattach bottom right panel

Is there a community to share and learn about other’s experiences?

There’s an “official” discord with an active community. Click here for an invitation.

Information from Peopoly about the community

PET-CF Profile

Author(s): @kaihanga
References

“Thanks for a reminder. My max volumetric is 30, flow ratio is .9, PA is 0.022…”

Rails and Carriages

Author(s): @kaihanga

Dimensions

Misc.

References